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• History of Christianization of Europe
• Soviet Union, Communist influence
• Map of European ethnic groups
• Map of Fascism in Europe (1922-75)
• History of Islamic conquest in Europe
• Religions & ethnic groups in Russia

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Muhammad cartoon crisis in pictures
• Stalin's private summer home
• Ravenna: capital of Gothic empire
• Czar Nicholas II's Ukrainian palace
• European traditional costumes/dress
• Inside the Vatican, house of all wealth

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Islamic Mujahidin vs. Spain & El Cid
• Poland-Lithuania vs. Teutonic Order
• Nevskiy's Russia vs. German Crusaders
• Mussolini vs. Libyan Islamic fighters
• Qadafi: Europe will soon be Islamic
• Ivan the Terrible vs. Muslim Tatars 

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Inside Albania, Europe's only Muslim culture (with rare pictures)
• History of Jihad in Chechnya
& Caucasus vs. Russians
• History of the Muslim Tatars in Russia
• Ethnic & religious history of Serbs, Croats, & Bosnians
• History of Italy: from Roman rule to Germanic barbarian
• The cost & bloodshed of the Serb-Albanian conflict in Kosovo
• Inside Bulgaria, 1st Slavic nation,
land of Thracian masters of gold
• Visual history of Yugoslavia
• Inside Muslim Turkey: right for the European Union? 

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

A rare inside look at Albania, Europe's only Muslim culture
by James Mayfield (Chairman, European Heritage Library)

Print this Article    •    About the Author    •    Bibliography/Sources

This is a rare article on the current cultural, ethnic, historical, religious, social, and linguistic dimensions of Albania, Europe's sole Muslim culture, complete with photos, from my rare 2007 vacation. It is among the most politically and historically isolated cultures on earth, and its people have acted as a major source of conflict with surrounding Slavic nations. The article also investigates the role of Islam in Europe, complete with history.

Albania -- Shqiperia



English name: Albania
Local name: Shqiperia (Sh-keep-aeria)
Population: 3,600,523
Religion: officially Muslim 70%, Albanian Orthodox 20%, Roman Catholic 10%
Language: Albanian (Shqip) with Greek and Italian commercial resident minority
Ethnic groups: officially Albanian 95%, Greek 3%, other 2% (Vlach, Roma (Gypsy), Serb, Bulgarian)
Note that "Albanian" depicts the native nationals, and not a homogeneous ethnicity
Average fertility/woman: 2.03 per woman
Migration rate: -4.54 migrant(s)/1,000 population [Albanians are leaving]
Per capita average income: $5,700
Unemployment: officially 13.8%; in reality, employment problems may exceed 60%
Population below poverty line: officially 25%; in reality, well over 60%
Extant populations elsewhere of Albanians: Italy, Greece, Macedonia, USA
Source: CIA World Factbook

Albania is one of the two poorest nations in Europe, second only to Moldova, and is akin to walking through a surly slum in Central America or even Africa outside of the capital of Tiranë. Experiencing Albania inclines one to believe that this small coastal hill country was a brutal warzone, despite the fact that Albania has felt some of the least amounts of violence of the 20th century due to its forced isolation. It is also the sole Islamic culture of Europe, although Bosnia-Herzegovina bears a roughly 40% Muslim Bosniak population. Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan are sometimes considered part of Europe (both Muslim countries), though they are both Asian and not European in terms of geography, culture, languages, etc. There are only two nations with a Muslim majority in Europe -- Albania and the disputed Kosovo nation -- and both are populated by the Albanian Muslim culture. It emerged from nearly five decades of autarkic communist dictatorial rule under Enver Hoxha (Hod-ja) into a struggling and corrupt democratic state by 1992. This drastic transition of this relatively young geographically-European nation is apparent in its depressing and deep poverty. It and its ethnic group (Albanians) are seemingly hated all across Europe as backward criminals who settle in other nations to receive their social benefits. Their identity as Muslims also fuels this clash, as Albania was the only state of Europe to fully submit to the Jihad of the Turks during 400 years of foreign rule (not including the thousands outside who were forced to do so). Tourism to Albania is thus brand new -- our cruise was among the first to travel there commercially. We landed at Sarandë, a growing coastal "resort city" among Albania's largest.

Enver Hoxha, the communist dictator who ruled Albania for decades

Upon arrival, the city is relatively innocuous and plain. The backdrop is filled with hills and relatively arid grounds. Fishermen adorn the coastline. All buildings appear the same hue of tan or beige, mostly two-storied with a great deal of construction all throughout the city on the coast. No massive flagpole standards, no huge cathedrals or churches. Only a relatively tall mosque with a very plain blue-and-white minaret in the center of town. This was the first mosque I had seen. But instead of hearing the call to prayer throughout the day, church bells greeted the coming ship. Was this secular, or an attempt to welcome the majority-Christian/European visitors? The city has no harbor, but rather a small dock to which the ship's passengers were ferried via tender. Inside the city, it is apparent that this country is in a depressing mess. A good 90% of buildings are under "construction". By no means does this imply that Albania is undergoing expansive growth; rather, the buildings are half-finished, most with holes in the walls or no doors or roofs at all. The buildings dispose of their trash around their homes, a house can be entered by nearly anyone due to the lack of doors or walls, and atop each first story of a home is another layer of the building with only the foundations. The reason for this is that other than their horrific poverty, most Albanians have no work opportunity in their own economy, so they build a portion of their home, then emigrate to a wealthier European nation like Italy or Greece (where they are hated almost universally, and generally do little work there either) to expand their homes. This takes many phases, so homes are constructed over long-term periods. Nearly every home has a scarecrow made of a doll or other toy out of both fun and to keep the birds from their homes; the tactic fails. Albania is almost universally dependent upon foreign labor elsewhere, subsistence agriculture, and the desperate hope for growing tourism.

the city from above.

another photo of mine of the houses against the backdrop of the lush valley.

a dilapidated housing tract.

a bored Albanian man near a broken-down house.

a traditional Albanian home.

Though Albania herself has little history as a nation, it takes pride in other ancient monuments of other cultures. The region of Albania's (or Illyria to the Romans) history by majority consists of a number of warring tribes (the Tosks and Ghegs primarily) warring against local authorities like the Serbs, Bulgarians, and Byzantines, until unifying as a Christian state under the warrior hero Gjergj Skanderbeg to fight against the coming Turkish Islamic Jihad. Albanian history emerged under this period, when Skanderbeg reverted from Islam back to his Christian heritage to rally his people against the Muslims. They ultimately failed, and were ruled by the armies of Islam for some 400 years until being liberated by their Balkan Christian Slavic neighbors (Bulgaria and Serbia dispute the successor). Albanians believe themselves to descend from an ancient golden civilization from the Roman period, the Illyrians and Epirs, though much of this is nationalism with no or little evidence. But Albania is ripe with foreign ancient monuments, including an ancient Jewish synagogue built near the 3rd century before being obliterated and burnt by the pre-Orthodox Slavic invaders from the 5th century onward. Today, it is merely a series of ruins in a deep sandy bed within 50 meters of the city's mosque. Near the city's hinterlands, there are dozens and dozens of Roman and Greek ruins, from a Christian baptistery to ancient pre-Christian temples. The many churches of Albania were all burnt by the Muslim Turks upon invasion to ensure the triumph of Islam. Future Christian churches were all leveled by the Communists in the so-called "first truly atheist state" of Hoxha.

the town center over the destroyed synagogue from the Roman period.

Skanderbeg, Albania's Christian defender against the Jihad

one of Albania's few churches after the Turkish Jihad and Communist periods.

The influence of the Turkish Muslims is blatant after nearly four centuries of foreign conquest, making "Albanian" culture very conflicting and marred in its identity. Is an Albanian to be proud of his bizarre and exclusive language and proud defense against the Jihad under Skanderbeg, or is one to be proud of an ethnic group whose culture is a blend of Communist rebellion, Islam, isolation, and desperate subsistence for the family? Is an Albanian a white European Christian like every other nation of Europe, or is he a unique vanguard of Islam in a continent that rejects it? Firstly, subtle elements are present that are borrowed from the Islamic rulers. Albanians generally shake the head vertically to signify "no", and horizontally to signify "yes". In Europe and North America, the head is nodded to affirm, and shaken left to right to reject. The Albanian method is present in both Turkey and, in part, in Bulgaria, which also felt the brutality of the Islamic Jihad. Albanian Muslim is so Islamic- and Turkish-influenced it is even difficult to distinguish between the two. Zitars, drums, chants, and the familiar throat-bellowing of women can be heard in many songs. Albania, however, is easily the most liberal of Islamic peoples. The veil is seldom worn due to their distancing from Turkey as well as their history of atheistic Communist rule. However, many older women can be seen in the streets with full veils and, occasionally, a full Afghani/Taliban-style blue burqa. Men do not dress conservatively, and the younger Albanians tend to dress promiscuously even. Islam bears quite a nominal rule after the Communist period, as the call to prayer that greeted the city at noon during our visit had virtually no reaction from the locals. But upon carefully gazing into a mosque, I could see that the mosque was full, with some 30 pairs of shoes outside the door. The inhabitants by majority appeared of Turkish race rather than Slavic or "Illyric". Albania's ethnic distribution, officially cited as being homogeneously Albanian, is actually quite diverse as I came to find obvious. Their ethnic heritage is a source of debate as per whether they are Slavic, Greek, Turkic, Thracian, or a mix thereof. They are probably Slavic since the Slavic migration period, having developed a separate language and culture due to isolation and the Turkish Jihad's affect on the local population. Their culture is a syncretism of the native Slavic tribes Tosk and Gheg, blended with the Turkish conquest as well as early Greek influences. Virtually most of Albanians have Turkish, Arab, or "Muslim" names, including Muhammad, Ali, Rashid, and Mustafa. The toilets are sunken into the ground for squatting of both man and woman, as common in older Turkey. Though in post-war academia the Albanians are cited as being entirely a unique race of no common link, they are probably a Slavic ethnic group with a bizarre and unique language that developed out of isolation and foreign influence. Without common links to the local Byzantines, Bulgarians, Serbs, Germans, or other Slavs so far away, it is logical that these various tribes of the mountains and hills of Albania developed an isolate group from a common Slavic racial origin. This uniqueness of culture and heritage (not ethnicity) is a source of extreme pride and nationalism for Albanians then and now. One source of racism used by Europeans of Albanians is their alleged liberal sexuality, whether logical or not.

an Afghani or fundamentalist full-body burqa

the town's sole notable mosque. Sunni and quite plain.

Further inspection of Albania made it clear that Albania is a total mess. The roads are unpaved dirt. Dust pounds against cars and visitors' pants. Ledges to deep pits are not cordoned off at all; at night, one could easily slip off a uniform ledge to fractures or even death with only the prestigious Albanian doctors to trust. Trash and sewers are dumped into the streets. Potholes in the street are covered in dirt and plastic wrap. It is virtual feudalism. Pickpockets and thieves are everywhere. Local children rob visitors, many ordered by their own families to do so. Gypsies and Turks perform the same. The locals are very simply clothed with white tank-tops, sandals, some torn clothes, some no shirts at all. Women wear high heels and short tops. The older women wear headscarves. Men are seldom shaven, which may simply be a relic of Turkish Muslim rule instead of uncleanliness. Virtually every building is abandoned it seems. Ancient sites even crucial to Albanian heritage (like that of Turkish Muslim rule or the defense against the Jihad) were demolished for quarry for the desperately poor citizens. Mats are laid in the middle of the street with old fruits, clothes, and wares to be sold; Albania's economy seems largely informal. Geos, Fiats, Yugos, and Renaults seem to be all that are available or purchased here, each some 20 years old, each with paint peeling or scratches all over the vehicles. At the same time, Audis and Mercedes roll through the city with "I", "DE", and "GR" proudly adhered to their rears. These are the work force and entrepreneurial business owners of Albania -- the Italian, Germans, and Greek minority. They own nearly all of the businesses and have virtually all of the wealth. The Albanians recognize this, which is a source of mutual racism and social conflict. Grafitti in the city often reads "F*ck Italia" or other terms rejecting Greece, Germany, the EU, or Russia, all of which are aiding their sluggish economy that the Albanians consider imperialists instead. There is little grafitti however, thus rejecting the notion that men who have little to do resort to bad behavior. This can also be because of the lack of television and connection to American street culture during the isolationist Communist period. Almost no English is spoken. Greek is spoken commonly to interface with the business and bank owners. The Leke, the currency of Albania, is virtually worthless, and is adorned with some of Albania's newer statesmen.

the Albanian sunken toilet, Turkish-inspired.

dilapidated Albanian housing.

The Albanian Leke

Outside of the city proper, however, Albania is quite beautiful and unique. The hills and mountains are covered in yellow grain fields and subsistence crops. Military bunkers and pillboxes cover virtually every few meters of the distance. During the period of Hoxha's leadership, thousands and thousands of small "family" pillboxes were built in order to rally military defense against perceived invaders, theoretically the Jugoslav state of Jozip Broz Tito after World War II. The pillboxes oddly do not face the coastal approach; they point inland towards the other Balkan states of the Jugoslav federation. Nearly one pillbox was built per square mile. During the late 1990s, most pillboxes were covered in spraypaint and other mediums to promote "art" by local artists, but ends up looking like a few orange marks on the concrete. Cows, sheep, donkeys, and goats walk through the street with right-of-way to the next farm crop along the dirt roads. Some 30 minutes outside the city up a long mountain road, the beauty of Albania is fully present. The world-renowned "Blue Eye" pool is reached via a winding dirt road for full-size bus tours who virtually drive over the edge due to the lack of security. The main attraction in Albania, the Blue Eye, is in the middle of a lovely and bizarre forest with hollowed trees and tall grasses and bushes. A flowing river (to which waste and sewage are freely disposed) meets its source deep within the earth in a bright-blue glowing water hole. A deep and cool water source is so rich in minerals that it is virtually iridescent, and has such a powerful current that any size rock thrown into the source will return to the surface. A diving attempt was foiled because the divers could not reach the bottom. After the experience, a strong and huge local beer (Kaon) can be enjoyed along with traditional Islamic Albanian music at a bar. Albania has its share of beautiful sights.

an Albanian "family" pillbox bunker.

the beautiful Blue Eye spring.

The role of criminals, pickpockets, or terrorists is a frightening and bizarre one many visitors experience. Not only do children and adults alike rob many of the visitors, but many young men seem to drive around together in cars staring at parts of the city or at the tourists. Cars filled with 3-5 men all staring in one direction -- often not at the locals even, confused many of the ship's passengers as to their intentions. After about 10 minutes, the many cars returned again to perform the same act. Many interpreted this behavior as a search for lone visitors to rob or even rape, whilst others (also disturbed by the sighting of full Taliban-esque burqas in the city nearby) were struck by fear of terrorism plots against them, the ship, the buses, or even local Albanian buildings. This made everyone a bit uncomfortable, as ethnic Albanians are a source of the majority of crime by proportion wherever they tend to settle, including Greece, Macedonia, and Serbia (as far as it is often interpreted). They are also a source of global Islamic terrorism, as was one of the reasons for Jugoslavija's massacre of ethnic Albanian Islamic rebels who fought against the government and civilian Slavic Christians for independence, which led to the US-NATO destruction of the Yugoslav state and the support for the same Albanian Kosovo that is viewed by the locals as terrorists. It must be acknowledged that most Albanians, because of the role of Hoxha's communism, are quite secular, and the argument can be made that the image many Europeans have of Albanians as petty thieves can be blamed upon their dire poverty (nearly the worst in Europe).

clothes hanging to dry atop a broken and ruined home.

Despite today's portrayal by the liberal West of Communist dictator Enver Hoxha as a brutal and corrupt dictator, he is still mythified as a heroic figure in Albanian culture who unified the Albanians so ripe to foreign rule (including that of Stalin's USSR, Tito's Jugoslavija, Hitler's Germany, Axis Horthy's Hungary, or Axis Antonescu's Romania) into an upright united state with food in every mouth and on every table, all defended by a well-defended nation built collectively by the people. His regime today is disliked for its placement of power in the hands of few, but is praised for its power of a state which historically had almost no importance in European history ever. Equally so, the success of Communism on poverty and starvation problems (or success by their interpretation that is) encourages the desperately poor Albanians to appeal to the left. Albanians' greatest cultural hero, Skanderbeg, who unified Albanian tribes in war against Islam's Jihad, is mythified in the same fashion as the founder of Albania's proud statehood.

It was fascinating to experience such a unique and wickedly poor part of the world, as well as to investigate the strange language and ethnic origins of a people caught between their European Christian heritage and the wake of the mighty Jihad of the Ottomans. Today, Muslim Albania, whose people are such a source of conflict with the local European states, is already approaching membership in the EU. It is popularly deemed a drain on Europe that will open the gates to more Albanian immigrants.

________________________________________

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

James Mayfield is the owner and Chairman of the European Heritage Library. I am working for a doctorate in history, with a specific emphasis on Islamic and European histories. I am well versed in all world cultures, ethnicities, religions, languages, politics, and historical evolution in relation to and against each other.

BIBLIOGRAPHY/SOURCES USED:

None used for this article (personal experience).