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• History of Christianization of Europe
• Soviet Union, Communist influence
• Map of European ethnic groups
• Map of Fascism in Europe (1922-75)
• History of Islamic conquest in Europe
• Religions & ethnic groups in Russia

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Muhammad cartoon crisis in pictures
• Stalin's private summer home
• Ravenna: capital of Gothic empire
• Czar Nicholas II's Ukrainian palace
• European traditional costumes/dress
• Inside the Vatican, house of all wealth

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Islamic Mujahidin vs. Spain & El Cid
• Poland-Lithuania vs. Teutonic Order
• Nevskiy's Russia vs. German Crusaders
• Mussolini vs. Libyan Islamic fighters
• Qadafi: Europe will soon be Islamic
• Ivan the Terrible vs. Muslim Tatars 

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

• Inside Albania, Europe's only Muslim culture (with rare pictures)
• History of Jihad in Chechnya
& Caucasus vs. Russians
• History of the Muslim Tatars in Russia
• Ethnic & religious history of Serbs, Croats, & Bosnians
• History of Italy: from Roman rule to Germanic barbarian
• The cost & bloodshed of the Serb-Albanian conflict in Kosovo
• Inside Bulgaria, 1st Slavic nation,
land of Thracian masters of gold
• Visual history of Yugoslavia
• Inside Muslim Turkey: right for the European Union? 

--MORE & NON-ENGLISH--

Inside the Vatican, the capital of global Catholicism, and the abode of all its wealth
by James Mayfield (Chairman, European Heritage Library)

Print this Article    •    About the Author    •    Bibliography/Sources

This article offers my personal observations & photos of the Vatican/Holy See/Papacy in Rome, Italy from my 2007 vacation. The Vatican or the Papacy has reigned as the very central authority of the Catholic world -- nominally more than 1 billion people on 6 continents -- since the end of the Roman Empire and the growth of Catholicism fostered by the expansion of powerful Catholic Empires, most importantly the German Empire (First Reich) and later the French kingdom and the Polish-Lithuanian state. The so-called "Vatican City" in downtown Rome retained spiritual authority since the 4th century but only after the 9th century did it gain a physical political body, when the German emperor Charlemagne (Karl the Great/Karl der Grosse) conquered the nation of the German Lombarden (Lombards) and created around Rome a vassal called the Papal States, which only after the creation of Italy in 1870 became part of Italy. With the loss of the Italian subcontinent from the German Empire to growing Italian states after the death of Friedrich Rotbart (Barbarossa) in the 12th century, the Papal States became independent. Gradually from the 12th century, the location of the Papacy (the Catholic ruling body, including Pope, Cardinals, etc.) was in doubt between Auvignon (in France) and in Rome, but remained in Rome throughout its history. Today, it retains respected political sovereignty, but is in all respects a part of Italy. Its supreme leader is obviously the Pope, and is a full religious theocracy like Iran and Brunei.

The reasons for the Germans' and Martin Luther's criticism of the Catholic church of extortion, excess wealth hording, and constant donations as the key to Heaven are easy to see: a tour through the Vatican renders a visitor literally mind-boggled, stunned, and senseless at the unfathomable wealth, beauty, and majesty of the Vatican and its buildings therein. Far from a Catholic and having seen the world over, I consider the greatest buildings constructed after the Ancient Era (thus excluding the Pyramids and Stonehenge) to be St. Peter's Basilica in the Vatican, St. Mark's Basilica in Venice, Westminster Abbey in London, and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul/Constantinople. None of these even holds a comparison to the glory of the Vatican and its basilica. The total dollar value of the Vatican structures (or even the small extravagance that can be seen by tourists) is inconceivable. Billions and tens of billions if not a higher figure.

Predictably, the Vatican City is a major pilgrimage and tourist site. Christian (Catholic only of course) tours can be seen everywhere, with foreign priests guiding visitors wearing crosses around their necks. Entrants can be seen bowing and emulating the crucifix on their chests as a sign of piety to the believed primacy of the Catholic Holy See. At all hours of the day, lines into the massive walls can be seen literally stretching miles and miles around the city with thousands and thousands of people without pause. Lines may take some 10 hours to enter. Paying a small fee for a guided tour, hilariously, can bypass all the lines almost instantly. The city's walls, which stand over 30 feet high all around, were designed to prevent assault by Islamic and Protestant invaders, as well as theft by local citizens. The Vatican is closed in entirety on Sundays. After entering, it becomes apparent that every inch of the entire city will be filled well over capacity; one will find his shoulders literally touching others' the entire way through the city and out the exit. Tens of thousands of people come here every week. A great portion of the city underground is off-limits to all but the Catholic leaders or "theologians", inspiring a great deal of rumors of endless treasures and hidden secrets and cover ups (with little evidence thereof). There are donation boxes everywhere, and offering moneys is encouraged in a variety of currencies. Employees offer currency exchange to donate to the church or buy products, which is quite shameful. Entrants are encouraged to dress conservatively, to stay quiet (which is impossible to enforce on so many non-Italian-speaking foreigners), and for women to wear veils or headscarves in the holy areas of the central Basilica. This is strongly enforced here, but often fails.

the entrance to the Vatican. (click to enlarge)

the seal of the Papacy on the outside.

the main courtyard of Vatican City. (click to enlarge)

Another angle of the courtyard. (click to enlarge)

a lion statue in the courtyard with odd Egyptian symbols.

The Catholic Papacy has the greatest treasures in the world from an endless amount of eras and nations. The modern architecture, furniture, and other structures in rooms such as chairs and stools are a variety of cultural styles, including pre-Islamic Egyptian, pre-Christian Greek and Roman, the Etruscan period, Babylonian and Sumerian even, etc. A walk through the massive hallways reveal -- oddly -- many pagan and non-Christian relics and artefacts, including statues of the old gods, phallic symbols, and sun-worship that one would expect the Catholics to have universally destroyed as they and their puppet Catholic empires did along with non-Christians, Muslims, and Jews for millennia. There is no visible Islamic architecture or gallery for obvious reasons. The hordes of treasures are present not only to show the supremacy of the Catholics over the previous pagans the world over, but also to show perhaps the evolution of human thought from the "fallacies" before Christendom into the holy truth in God's messenger and voice on earth: the Pope (or so is believed by his constituents). There are more Greek and Roman statues here it seems than in Greek museums in Athens or Olympia (see the other EHA topics for my other photos).

an interior hallway with statues galore. (click to enlarge)

some lovely and intricate statues in the main hall.

Another statue, this one very pre-Christian and bizarre to see in a theocratic state like the Vatican. The many shapes on her chest are debated to be either breasts or dates to symbolize fertility of crops and childbirth.

Other rooms offer interesting visuals: massive halls and corridors are adorned atop with glorious hand-painted murals dating back some more than 500 years. The walls are all covered with massive hand-sewn rugs from the Catholic and Islamic worlds, with many artistically showing holy scenes from the Bible, showing maps of Catholic countries, of the conversion of the Americas to Catholicism, of wars between Christian and Muhammadan empires, Catholic countries that are admired by the Papacy such as (at the time) Venice, France, Spain, Austria, Hungary, Poland, and German-ruled Croatia. Each of these map-rugs or artistic Biblical scenes stretch more than 20 feet in the air, adorned in gold or other gems. Some rooms bear rugs that are so old and rare that no photography at all is allowed, and the room must remain darkened; some surpass 1000 years in age. All of these massive painted murals are not simply attractive fillers to decorate the hallways; some if not most of these are far more impressive and intricate than the famous Sistine Chapel. One must walk through these glorious halls for miles in virtually solid crowds before going downward into a classical medieval dungeon-like corridor that leads to a gift shop for more donations, and the Chapel to the left.

the famous rug room with ancient carpets on the walls. (click to enlarge)

The ceilings are magnificent. (click to enlarge)

Another lovely artistic mural on the ceiling. (click to enlarge)

Gold, gems, jewels, and marble are everywhere. (click to enlarge)

Another room. (click to enlarge)

A ceiling mural in an adjoining room. (click to enlarge)

The Sistine Chapel is considered to be the greatest artistic achievement in the entire world. I was anxious to see this glorious accomplishment of the famous Italian painter Michaelangelo (1475-1564) my whole life, as it is viewed as the very heart of this most fantastic "country" along with the basilica. Upon entrance, visitors are only allowed to be present in the room for some 15 minutes before being expelled. Absolutely no talking is allowed (not even a whisper), and no photography with or without flash is allowed at all. This volume of voice is impossible to enforce upon all these Asian, Indian, and non-Italian foreigners, and the police and guards must yell for silence every few moments to no avail. The photography rule is in order to prevent patina or decay of the ancient paintings. Inside the Chapel, I was stunned to realize that I was not impressed at all by any of it. Michaelangelo seems to be an overrated artist given cult of personality by the liberal arts and free spirit lifestyle of US and Italian education. His accomplishments and efforts to fill a room more than 60 feet high on every wall with Biblical artwork cannot be ignored, but almost no single image or artistic drawing performed by Michaelangelo in the Sistine Chapel seems to surpass or even meet the fantastic works of the other artists in other Christian cathedrals around the world or even in other parts of the Vatican. In fact, a small portion of the Chapel offers a band wrapping around the room with golden paintings drawn by other artists (not Michaelangelo). These murals, directly next to the praised and near-worshiped work of Michaelangelo), are easily superior to his best by far. There are an endless amount of scenes drawn by Michaelangelo in the chapel, ranging from Adam and Eve to the creation of Man by God (the so-called "Adam-God" painting), to the life of Mary, John the Baptist, Jesus, and the Disciples. All of the figures seem very muscular and firm, including the women. The fact that Michaelangelo could not "paint women", and instead uses a male base to draw women (thus they are depicted with a great deal of anatomic masculinity) drives man to speculate his possible homosexuality (with little evidence thereof).

Leaving the Sistine Chapel, one proceeds to walk the perimeter of the massive St. Peter's Basilica. Built from the 11th century onward, the church became and remains today the largest Christian church in the world (its predecessor being the Byzantine Orthodox Christian Hagia Sophia in Constantinople before the Jihad converted it into a mosque and destroyed or covered any evidence of Jesus and the saints). The outside of the structure is adorned with several massive statues of Armenian saints and those of other Christian peoples. The entrance to the Basilica requires women to wear veils or headscarves, and men to cover their shoulders and legs. This is easily the most magnificent structure on earth since the Pyramids. Its ceiling reaches more than 100 feet high, its corridors and walkways are seemingly endless, and every surface on the floor, walls, and ceiling are covered in rich marble, gold, gem, jewel, or statue. Entering the building leaves one literally in awe. Some women can be seen crying having finally reached the main site of Catholic pilgrimage must as Muslims do when they perform the Hajj (هاج) pilgrimage to the mosques of Makkah and Madina in Saudi Arabia. Many bow and kiss crosses from their pockets inside. The interior is a lovely color variety of gold, red marble, black and gray marble, quartz, and gems like emerald. The Basilica is dedicated to the original St. Peter, considered arguably the first pope (though this is often only honorary), and it is believed by many that he settled here, though there is no evidence of him even setting foot in Europe. There is a marble statue of Peter whose feet have apparently been touched or kissed by so many pilgrims that the toes have collapsed and melded together to appear like a shoe. Michaelangelo also produced a few statues herein that are arguably better than his painting. One of them, a statue of Mary holding her dead son Jesus, was apparently attacked recently when a maniac ran into the church with a hammer and smashed part of the statue. There are the corpses of at least two former popes inside visible for public viewing, and many more "tombs" dedicated to the popes with no bodies inside. One corpse can only be photographed from a side angle oddly. The bodies are deemed to be in perfect condition due to the perfection and infallibility of these messengers of God on earth (or so it is said). Sermons with chairs are offered in multiple areas in the basilica in Latin any time of the week several times, and only praying Catholics (not tourists) may enter oddly; the areas are cordoned off to regular tourists. The most impressive portion of the basilica is arguably the centerpiece from which the Pope has offered sermons for centuries, now only for the public on Christmas Day and Easter Sunday. The bizarre and gorgeous arch of the Pope with its litten candles is a beautiful bronze, gold, and marble structure with swirling intricate pillars. Great attention was paid to the detail for obvious reasons. The basilica is an architectural, economic, religious, and visual wonder without comparison or comprehension.

An Armenian saint statue outside the basilica. Notice the small bizarre Armenian script.

The entrance of the basilica. Breath-taking. (click to enlarge)

One corner of the basilica. (click to enlarge)

Every surface and ceiling is stunning. (click to enlarge)

An ancient mosaic of gold along with a cross on the front wall.

Ornate red marble compliments statues beyond belief.

The main dome in the center of the cathedral. (click to enlarge)

The corpse of a saint. It may only be photographed from this exact angle, oddly.

The main holy pulpit from which the Pope leads the sermon. (click to enlarge)

A lovely altar with red marble.

A magnificent "tomb" that bears no body but commemorates the death of a holy pope.

Leaving the basilica, the famous St. Peter's Square can be traversed. The exterior of the basilica is as gorgeous and grand as its interior. The building can be traversed after offering a payment (naturally) that allows one to see the entire city of Rome. The housing and barracks for the inhabitants of Vatican City (including monks, friars, Bishops, Cardinals, and the Pope) are visible looping around the basilica and St. Peter's Square. They seem very innocuous and plain as living quarters in comparison with the remainder of the city. The Pope's quarters seem like a regular apartment room (but cannot be visited of course). The Square is set with thousands and thousands of seats all year round for listening to the Papal lectures or hearing holy announcements (including Papal deaths, major declarations, and new elections of Popes by the Papal leaders). A huge obelisk with a cross atop glorifies the center of the Square along with numerous churches and statues in all directions. The crowds are still endlessly massive even outside, and shops are everywhere to earn that extra dollar. The famous Swiss Guard -- Catholic Swiss Germans, Italians, or Frenchmen who offer a term of service to the church along with sworn celibacy -- can be seen outside the church. They live in the barracks and offer ceremonial security to the Vatican in their humorous blue-orange clothes from the Medieval period. Switzerland is a Catholic country (formerly a Calivinist Protestant one) with an ethnic majority of Germans and a minority of French and Italian.

The famous Swiss Guards.

St. Peter's Square, with the obelisk at center and the Basilica in the background. (click to enlarge)

One leaves the Vatican simply through the courtyard of St. Peter's Square, exiting to downtown Rome. Oddly, there is almost no security in this portion of the Vatican near the very most important parts: the Pope's chambers and the basilica. Poles prevent passing cars from entering, but anyone can walk into the Square and easily the interior chambers without any difficult it seems. The Vatican, which one would expect to be most at risk target of terrorism of the Jihad, seems extremely vulnerable and open. The Vatican was one of the greatest experiences in my life, even for a staunch Lutheran like myself.

________________________________________

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

James Mayfield is the owner and Chairman of the European Heritage Library. I am working for a doctorate in history, with a specific emphasis on Islamic and European histories. I am well versed in all world cultures, ethnicities, religions, languages, politics, and historical evolution in relation to and against each other.

BIBLIOGRAPHY/SOURCES USED:

Personal observations, photographs.